Inside a compact, well-organised professional kitchen in the heart of Milan, Corrado Calza is probing a large silver tray of red pepper-infused jelly with what appears to be a giant pair of tweezers. “I have a feeling this is not quite the right texture yet,” he says firmly, slicing a small circle of the jelly and placing it over a classic vol-au-vent, then tutting as it droops to one side. “I told you. The consistency has to be just thick enough to allow it to stand, like a…
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